Kako je biti Erasmus student u Španjolskoj?
Ovaj blog posvećen je iskustvima petomjesečnog studiranja na jugu Španjolske na Fakultetu Miguela Hernandeza u sklopu Erasmus programa. Pisat ću ljudima, zgodama i zanimljivostima koji su me intrigirali putem.
A već prva priča bavi se putovanjem u maslinik, gdje sam razgovarao s jednom tradicionalnom španjolskom obitelji o temama koje zaokupljaju stanovnike Pirinejskog poluotoka, poput flore, tradicije, ali i o rodnoj ravnopravnosti.
Inspiriran radikalizacijom mladih u Hrvatskoj i njihovom opterećenosti prošlošću u kojoj nisu živjeli, odlučio sam provjeriti kako na svoju diktatorsku prošlost gledaju mladi u Španjolskoj.
Ljude bez doma može se sresti na svakom koraku te sam u trećoj priči opisao susret s troje njih čije su priče bile nesretne na svoj način, ali ipak suviše zanimljive da ne bi bile ispričane.
Ovaj blog posvećen je iskustvima petomjesečnog studiranja na jugu Španjolske na Fakultetu Miguela Hernandeza u sklopu Erasmus programa. Pisat ću ljudima, zgodama i zanimljivostima koji su me intrigirali putem.
A već prva priča bavi se putovanjem u maslinik, gdje sam razgovarao s jednom tradicionalnom španjolskom obitelji o temama koje zaokupljaju stanovnike Pirinejskog poluotoka, poput flore, tradicije, ali i o rodnoj ravnopravnosti.
Inspiriran radikalizacijom mladih u Hrvatskoj i njihovom opterećenosti prošlošću u kojoj nisu živjeli, odlučio sam provjeriti kako na svoju diktatorsku prošlost gledaju mladi u Španjolskoj.
Ljude bez doma može se sresti na svakom koraku te sam u trećoj priči opisao susret s troje njih čije su priče bile nesretne na svoj način, ali ipak suviše zanimljive da ne bi bile ispričane.
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DOBRO JE ZNATI! 🤔 |
HranaZbog tradicionalnog španjolskog jela Valencijanske regije paelle, svake nedjelje obitelj se okuplja oko stola. I to ne samo mama, tata i dijete, već i djedovi, bake, tete, ujaci, stričevi, pa i daljnja rodbina. Najbitnije je ponijeti sa sobom dobru atmosferu i vjerojatno nešto za popiti. Iako za ovo zadnje ne mogu tvrditi jer toliko brzo pričaju da sam ih jedva razumio.. a pitam se bih li ih razumio i da su pričali sporije.
Ima mnogo načina na koje se paella može napraviti, ali osnovni sastojak je riža, meso i/ili riba po izboru (i tu mogu spadati i nama egzotične vrste mesa), povrće, od paprike do šafrana, i puno, puno začina. |
REPORTAŽA: |
S CIMERIMA; MARIJOM AMPARO I MANUELOM
Španjolska obitelj + erasmus student aka jaMARIA AMPARO I NJEZIN NEĆAK ERIK U ŠETNJI
OTAC MARIJE AMPARO NA POLJU MASLINIKA
PLOD MASLINE
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Prijateljski odnosi s lokalcima, točnije s mojim cimerima Manuelom i Marijom Amparo, omogućili su mi da posjetim i selo otkuda dolaze. Sax se nalazi 15ak kilometara od Elchea, unutar Valencijanske regije, a u njemu ne živi ni deset tisuća stanovnika. Moja ideja “sela” do tada je bila Dugo selo, ali ovo je više nalikovalo malom kraljevskom gradiću, što je uvelike doprinio dvorac na brdašcu u njegovom središtu.
Na prvu sam se čudio što ne vidim polja, vinove loze i domaćih životinja. No, sve se promijenilo kada me Maria Amparo nedjeljno popodne odvela sa svojom obitelji na njihovo seosko imanje na tradicionalno španjolsko jelo paellu. Pošto sam u inostranstvo otišao potpuno neinformiran o kulturi zemlje u koju dolazim, htjevši se neprestano iznenađivati, nisam znao o kakvoj je hrani riječ. Štoviše, kada su na stol iznijeli špeka, kruha i maslina, u sebi sam se razočarao misleći: “Aha… to je to”, ali s obzirom na jezičnu barijeru, nisam se usudio ni pokušati išta iskomunicirati – šutio sam, smješkao se, i popio tu domaću pivu nakon što me njezin otac treći put pitao. Ne pijem pivu, ali nije bilo Pelinkovca. I onda, pam pam pam: stigao je auto za dostavu. Na stolu se našla ogromna posuda, poput naše za kotlovinu, ispunjena rižom i ostalom hranom koju sam jedino mogao razabrati po okusu, jer tko bi znao što znači: cebolla, conejo, pavo, mejillones y frijoles po samom nazivu? (luk, zec, pura, dagnje i grah, ako ste se pitali). Ja, kao mamin sin naviknut na obični grah petkom i piletinu utorkom, nisam mogao doći sebi od toga koliko je bilo ukusno (a vjerojatno sam bio i gladan jer me ono predjelo nije ništa nahranilo). OBILAZAK PO MASLINIKU Otac Marije Amparo objasnio mi je kako je do prije 30 godine na mjestu maslina bilo puno vinograda od kojeg su proizvodili vino. No, budući da je oko vinove loze bilo previše posla, zasadili su stabla maslina i sada proizvode ulje. Ove godine posebno je zadovoljan sa žetvom. Kada maslina dozrije, kreće se u branje plodova. To se obavlja u prosincu ili siječnju, ovisno o vremenskim prilikama. U veljači u Španjolskoj postaje osjetno hladnije te nastupa mraz. U ožujku se drveće obrezuje i čisti tako da se skidaju grane koje su stare kako bi se napravilo prostora za rast stabljiki koje su mlade. "To radimo kako bi drvo maslina bilo uvijek mlado", kaže. Kada sam ga upitao hoće će li se njegova obitelj nastaviti baviti obiteljskim biznisom, priznao mi je da i nije baš siguran, ali da će se možda netko od njegove tri kćeri vratiti brinuti se o masliniku. U prošlosti se, kaže, od plodova imanja čitava obitelj mogla prehraniti, ali da to više nije moguće. Radi koliko mu tijelo dopušta, a cilj mu je uštedjeti što više novca. Nakon popodneva u prirodi, Maria Amparo i ja brzo smo se vratili u njezin dom u Sax kako bismo se spremili za izlazak u selo. U selu sam upoznao paletu mladih ljudi i razgovarao s njima o tome kako im izgleda život tamo i o problemima koji ih muče. Ali to je priča za neki sljedeći post :) |
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NEPOZNATE RIJEČI 🗣
EL cuartelilloEl cuartelillo u originalnom značenju, označava "mjesto u kojoj je smještena vojnička trupa", ali danas su mladi (ali i oni stariji) prisvojili taj termin te ga koriste za njihov prostor za druženje s prijateljima. Prijatelji se grupiraju se uglavnom po godištima.
Naziv ovog cuartelilla je "Las Nechis". |
LA FIESTATulum
(ne treba posebno objašnjavati 😉) |
"LAS NECHIS""Las Nechis" je cuartelilliro koje se sastoji od 15 prijatelja između 20 i 22 godine. Lokal se nalazi u centru sela i plaćaju ga 200 eura mjesečno. Ukrasili su ga i opskrbili s televizorom, frižiderom i namještajem, a posebno im koristi kao utočište za vrijeme pandemije.
Kažu kako im prostor služi za fešte, cuganja, gledanje filmova, zajedničke večeri i pušenje jointova. |
DOBRO JE ZNATI! 🤔FRANCISCO FRANCO, MADRID, 1969.
(iZVOR: WIKIMEDIA COMMONS) "ŽENA I KOZA, DUGAČKO UŽE", NATPIS JE NA STAROJ SLICI NA ULAZU IMANJA MARIJE AMPARO IZ DOBA FRANCISCA FRANCA.
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POVIJESNA LEKCIJA
Španjolski građanski rat započeo je nakon što je Francisco Franco 1936. sa svojom pobunjeničkom vojskom izveo vojnu pobunu protiv vlade Narodne fronte. Iste godine su Njemačka i Italija priznale Francovu vladu, kojoj su od početka građanskog rata pružale pomoć u brodovima, zrakoplovima, oružju i ljudstvu. S obzirom na politiku nemiješanja Velike Britanije i Francuske, uz oružanu pomoć Mussolinija i Hitlera, Republikanci su s vremenom doživljavali poraze i gubili teritorij. Kada su Republikanci 1938. izgubili i Madrid, Velika Britanija, Francuska, i SAD priznale su Francovu vladu. Franco je tada objavio kraj rata koji je trajao gotovo tisuću dana i odnio više od milijun života.
Nakon sloma Republikanaca, Franco je, kao diktator, uveo autoritativni poredak. 1947. godine službeno je obnovio monarhiju, a sebe je proglasio doživotnim regentom (vladarom). Nakon razdoblja ekonomskog nazadovanja, od kraja 1950-ih došlo je do ubrzanog razvoja zahvaljujući liberalizaciji gospodarstva. Nakon njegove smrti 1975. godine, ponovno su bile legalizirane ljevičarske političke stranke i organizacije. Govori se kako je najviše povlađivao bogatima, odnosno onima koji su ga financirali, dok je diktatorski režim bio usmjeren protiv la gente de a pie, odnosno prema običnim ljudima. (IZVOR: enciklopedija.hr) |
PANEL:
ŠTO MLADI MISLE O MRAČNOM DOBU ŠPANJOLSKE?
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A HOME BENEATH
THE PALM TREES
As a foreigner in the city of Elche, I noticed lots of similarities between Spain and Croatia: women working on kiosks are always talking on their phones, workers on the street getting their asses falling out of pants every time they bend down, and the culture which all the time is asking you the most important question – what did you eat today. However, the countries are similar because of another reasons as well. One of those similarities is the number of people sleeping on the streets, the homeless ones.
T h e I n v i s i b l e s
Walking on a sunny day, one girl approached me. She didn’t realize she was approaching me for days before, but I guess she sees lots of people passing all the time so she might forget my face, especially underneath the mask. Her story starts always the same. She usually says with a raspy voice: „Hi. Do you have one euro? My name is Fani (sounds like „funny“ in English)“. She thinks that she is funny by nature, just like her name. I think she kinda is funny for real. Even though she’s in her 30s and wearing old, dirty clothes, you could feel the kind heart pass that unattractive look. I wondered about her story, but I never take time to stop and listen. I always leave thinking I got to do something more important. But maybe I didn’t listen to her because it’s too sad. I gave her a euro, she said thank you and got lost in the streets of the old party of the city. I haven’t seen her since.
I’m wondering where is she now, did she switched the city and went to Alicante or maybe even Malaga to sleep on the beaches in anticipation of nicer weather. Maybe someone spotted her and got her a job there. Maybe she’s making people laugh with her voice and jokes. She’s a funny girl after all. But, even though I’m imagining her happy, the status quo of reality is hardly changeable. I hope she didn’t lose her smile.
I’m wondering where is she now, did she switched the city and went to Alicante or maybe even Malaga to sleep on the beaches in anticipation of nicer weather. Maybe someone spotted her and got her a job there. Maybe she’s making people laugh with her voice and jokes. She’s a funny girl after all. But, even though I’m imagining her happy, the status quo of reality is hardly changeable. I hope she didn’t lose her smile.
The other time, I was getting back home from the city center in rush – it was almost 10 o’clock and no one is allowed to stay outside after 10 (or at least be spotted by the police). One guy in his 40s was walking in the same direction. He asked me something, anymore I don’t remember what, but it was enough to start the conversation. When I asked him how he is, he started crying. He told me that he was begging the whole day in the city and that people gave him less than one euro. For the whole day. That was the moment I knew he was going to ask me for the money, but he said nothing (yet). He talked about his hermana and her little niño and how they didn’t eat and he has to buy a chicken from the store for them to prepare for family dinner. I had 2 euros in change and gave it to him. But he wanted more, he said he didn’t have had enough to buy chicken. I didn’t have more change and I pretended to go in the other direction. To tell the truth, is the hardest thing to say. How could I say „I will not help you“ to someone who obviously needs help. I left, he was still in tears and moved on – what else could he do?
Maybe he got lucky after we separated our ways. Maybe someone bought him chicken in the store which he brought to his sister and little nephew. They would make them happy for sure. Maybe the man stopped crying and forgot about his worries. I can just guess because I haven’t seen him anymore. I hope he is not hungry.
Maybe he got lucky after we separated our ways. Maybe someone bought him chicken in the store which he brought to his sister and little nephew. They would make them happy for sure. Maybe the man stopped crying and forgot about his worries. I can just guess because I haven’t seen him anymore. I hope he is not hungry.
Yesterday I couldn’t turn away my head. I was walking by the river following the Elche’s canal. I was going deeper into the wildness and found a perfect spot underneath the bridge at the north side of Elche, next to the water stream. It was a perfect place for taking photos. While doing that, I noticed a man in the grass just a few meters from me. He asked me something and I went closer to him to hear him better. As I was seeing him better, I noticed he wore lots of thick clothes and was even covered by blankets, even though the outside was very warm. Around him on grass were lying leftovers of bread, cans, and all sorts of food. There were also few plastic bottles of water and Coca-Cola along with cigarette butts. Audrius, the guy I encountered, appeared very young. He got Scandinavian blond hair, blue eyes, and got skin white like cheese. He told me he is 26 years old and that he has been living in Spain for over one year. He is originally from Lithuania and that he came to Spain for work. Not long after he started working, the business failed and he didn’t have a source of income anymore. He ended up on the street. I asked him about his family in Lithuania and he said he didn’t speak to them in few months, while also noting I was the first person he talked to in a long time. I offered my phone to him so he could call his mother. He called. I didn’t understand what they were saying, but Audrius told me how mom’s asking him to come back home and that it is safe for him to come back. I don’t know why was it unsafe before, I didn’t get the right answer. He speaks slow and soft, sometimes saying sentences that don’t make sense. This guy suffered in life and he’s still young. But something’s different.
We hung out for some time and it came time for me to go back home. When I was leaving, he asked me: „Will you come back tomorrow?“. I answered: „Maybe.“. What else could I say? “Tomorrow maybe”, he answered satisfied.
And indeed, I returned the next day.
Even though happy endings are not in sight on the horizon, we shouldn't be afraid. I was raised up to be careful, to avoid unknown people, and don’t take candies from strangers per se. We are afraid of the others who have a home beneath the palms, BUT we’re not realising they are the ones who are much more afraid of us.
The end
We hung out for some time and it came time for me to go back home. When I was leaving, he asked me: „Will you come back tomorrow?“. I answered: „Maybe.“. What else could I say? “Tomorrow maybe”, he answered satisfied.
And indeed, I returned the next day.
Even though happy endings are not in sight on the horizon, we shouldn't be afraid. I was raised up to be careful, to avoid unknown people, and don’t take candies from strangers per se. We are afraid of the others who have a home beneath the palms, BUT we’re not realising they are the ones who are much more afraid of us.
The end